Mount Rainier · Disappointment Cleaver
Disappointment Cleaver from Paradise
SR 706 blocks Nisqually Entrance access October 23 at 9 PM through October 24 at 6 AM Pacific. NPS identifies Stevens Canyon via SR 123 as the Paradise alternative during that window; Longmire–Paradise gates remain weather-dependent.
Checked 2026-10-23 · NPS Road Status ↗The Route
A glacier-climbing route from Paradise through Camp Muir and the upper mountain.
- ParadiseLower approach
- Camp MuirHigh camp
- Disappointment CleaverRock and glacier terrain
- SummitUpper glacier route
Paradise to Camp Muir
The Paradise approach follows the Skyline Trail toward Panorama Point, crosses Pebble Creek and continues onto the Muir Snowfield. Camp Muir divides this lower snowfield approach from the Cowlitz and Ingraham glacier portion above; it is the high camp, not the summit.
Cowlitz, Cathedral Gap & Ingraham Flats
Above Muir the route traverses the Cowlitz Glacier, passes through the Cathedral Rocks ridge and reaches the Ingraham Glacier around 10,500 ft. Ingraham Flats is on this approach to the cleaver; the Ingraham Direct route is a separate upper line.
Cleaver & Upper Glacier
The route gains the rocky cleaver above its lower nose and climbs to its top around 12,300 ft. The upper glacier line then works toward the east crater rim; its actual course changes around crevasses rather than following a permanent fixed trail.
Crater & Columbia Crest
The east-rim arrival is below the true summit across the crater toward its western rim. The published descent returns by the climbing route to Camp Muir and Paradise. Any ladders, wands or fixed equipment must come from a current report, not this reference description.
Snowfield & Glaciers
The pale-blue area starts at the Muir Snowfield’s approximate lower reference elevation of 7,000 ft. Above Camp Muir, the NPS route guide describes glacier terrain toward the summit. This is reference terrain, not current snow coverage.
Rock Sections
The upper route also includes rock, including Disappointment Cleaver. Blue does not mean uninterrupted snow cover; the extent of exposed rock varies with conditions.
Rounded route-scale figures. The NPS route brief is historical. Approximate 18-mile return distance doubles RMI’s 9-mile one-way reference; actual glacier routing varies. Reference Set: 2026-10-23.
Weather
Current forecasts open at the providers below. NWS forecasts describe a terrain grid cell, not an exact summit.
Access
Paradise, Mount Rainier National Park
Start & Approach
This route starts at Paradise. Road access runs through the Nisqually entrance and Longmire; the White River entrance serves a different side of the mountain.
Road Snapshot · October 22, 2026
SR 706 blocks Nisqually Entrance access October 23 at 9 PM through October 24 at 6 AM Pacific. NPS identifies Stevens Canyon via SR 123 as the Paradise alternative during that window; Longmire–Paradise gates remain weather-dependent. Longmire–Paradise gates can close with weather; this is a dated road snapshot.
Winter Road Rules
The Longmire gate can close with weather and road conditions. All vehicles, including 4WD, must carry tire chains November 1–May 1. Daily gate updates appear in park alerts.
Climbing Fee & Permit
Travel on glaciers or above 10,000 ft requires a climbing permit. The rangers’ 2026 update says the climbing fee is now paid for each climb, not once annually. Payment does not replace the permit.
Fall / Winter Registration
The September 8 ranger update places Paradise self-registration at the Old Ranger Station / Guide House. The kiosk is available 24 hours; its position moves to the porch when the building is winterized.
Park Entry & Overnight Stays
Park entrance fees are separate from climbing registration. Backcountry overnight stays also require the appropriate wilderness permit.
Camp Muir Services
The ranger reference lists a public shelter, toilets and human-waste collection, but no running water or trash service. Shelter space is first come, not guaranteed by reaching camp. Overnight stays require a permit even without a summit attempt.
Alpine Camp Rules
Camping is limited to permanent snow or ice or previously used bare-ground sites. New rock windbreaks and cleared tent sites are prohibited. Camp only in the zone on the permit.
Source information checked 2026-10-23. Road snapshots are dated separately.
Reports
Seasonal Update · September 8, 2026
Rangers report that guide-installed ladders, ropes and protection have been removed for winter. The post also notes that Camp Muir’s public shelter reopened October 1. These are dated seasonal updates, not today’s snow observations.
Climbing Ranger Updates
Seasonal route reports from the Mount Rainier climbing rangers, including Disappointment Cleaver and Camp Muir.
Guide Field Dispatches
RMI’s expedition dispatches include dated Mount Rainier updates. Match the route and trip date before comparing reports.
Trail & Camp Conditions
NPS updates for the approach trails and backcountry camps, separate from upper-mountain climbing reports.
Links open the publishers’ report pages. Reports are not automatically imported or filtered to a forecast date.
Sources
Other Mount Rainier Routes
- Mount Rainier · Emmons-Winthrop · Emmons-Winthrop · White River Campground / Glacier Basin Trailhead
- Mount Rainier · Kautz Glacier · Kautz Glacier · Paradise
- Mount Rainier · Liberty Ridge · Liberty Ridge · White River Campground / Glacier Basin Trailhead
- Mount Rainier · Ingraham Direct · Ingraham Direct · Paradise
- Mount Rainier · Fuhrer Finger · Fuhrer Finger · Paradise
- Mount Rainier · Fuhrer Thumb · Fuhrer Thumb · Paradise
- Mount Rainier · Wilson Headwall · Wilson Headwall · Paradise
- Mount Rainier · Gibraltar Ledges · Gibraltar Ledges · Paradise
- Mount Rainier · Success Cleaver · Success Cleaver · Longmire / Wonderland Trail
- Mount Rainier · Tahoma Glacier · Tahoma Glacier · Westside Road Entrance
- Mount Rainier · Sunset Ridge · Sunset Ridge · Westside Road Entrance
- Mount Rainier · Central Mowich Face · Central Mowich Face · Westside Road Entrance
- Mount Rainier · Edmunds Headwall · Edmunds Headwall · Mowich Lake · Historical Approach
- Mount Rainier · Ptarmigan Ridge · Ptarmigan Ridge · White River Campground / Glacier Basin Trailhead